While pruning shears and loppers are the workhorses of the garden, every gardener eventually faces a branch that is simply too large or tough for them to handle.
This is where a pruning saw becomes an essential tool. A good saw makes a clean, precise cut that supports the tree or shrub’s natural response to pruning. Choosing the right one can transform a daunting task into a quick, satisfying job that saves you time, effort, and strain.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to select the right pruning saw for your needs.
When to Use a Pruning Saw Instead of Pruning Shears or Loppers
Knowing which tool to use is the first step towards effective pruning. The decision usually depends on the branch diameter and the stated cutting capacity of the tool.
- Pruning shears: ideal for small stems and branches within the tool’s specified cutting capacity.
- Loppers: their long handles provide additional leverage for branches that are too thick for pruning shears.
- Pruning saws: designed for branches that exceed the cutting capacity of your pruning shears or loppers.
Always check the manufacturer’s specifications before cutting. FELCO pruning saws are available with different blade lengths and cutting capacities for a wide range of tasks.
A saw is also a better choice for cutting hard, dead wood that may damage the blades of pruning shears or loppers. If you need to make a cut in an awkward or tight spot where you cannot fully open a pair of loppers, the slim profile of a saw blade can also provide better access.
Types of Pruning Saws Explained
Pruning saws come in different shapes and sizes, each designed for specific tasks.
Understanding these differences is key to choosing the right one.
Curved vs. Straight Blades: Advantages and Uses
→ Curved blades: these saws are designed to cut aggressively on the pull stroke. The curve helps the blade stay in the cut, also known as the kerf, and makes it easier to tackle branches overhead or at awkward angles. They are excellent for general-purpose pruning and removing larger limbs quickly.
→ Straight blades: these offer more precision and control. They are ideal for making clean, accurate cuts, especially in tight spaces or when working on more delicate trees. Straight blades are often preferred for finer work, such as shaping smaller trees or cutting through dense growth.
Folding vs. Fixed Blades: Portability and Power
→ Folding saws: the blade folds safely into the handle. These saws are compact, portable, and easy to carry in a pocket or on a tool belt. They are convenient for general garden use and can also be useful for hiking or camping. However, the folding mechanism can be less robust than a fixed-blade design.
→ Fixed-blade saws: these saws have longer, more robust blades that are permanently attached to the handle. They are built for power and durability, making them a preferred choice for heavy-duty pruning, extensive orchard work, or professional landscaping where cutting speed and strength are important.
Key Features to Consider Before Buying
Blade Length: Match It to the Branch Size
A useful rule of thumb is to choose a saw blade that is longer than the diameter of the branch you are cutting.
A longer blade allows you to use more of the teeth during each stroke, helping to clear sawdust efficiently and cut faster.
For general garden work, a blade between approximately 150 and 250 mm is versatile. Larger branches and more demanding pruning tasks may require a longer blade.
Always check the stated cutting capacity of the saw before use.
Tooth Size and TPI: Fast vs. Clean Cuts
The size and spacing of the teeth, often measured in teeth per inch, determine the saw’s cutting action.
- Large teeth with a low TPI: saws with fewer, larger teeth cut aggressively and quickly. They are useful for removing a large amount of wood but may leave a rougher finish.
- Small teeth with a high TPI: saws with more, smaller teeth produce a smoother, cleaner cut. The trade-off is that they cut more slowly. These are best suited to precise work on live or sensitive wood.
Most high-quality pruning saws, including FELCO models, are pull-stroke saws. This means they cut when you pull the saw towards you, which requires less effort and gives you more control than a push-stroke saw.
Best Pruning Saws by Use Case
To make choosing easier, here are our recommendations based on common gardening scenarios.
Best Folding Saw for Everyday Garden Use
For the home gardener who needs a reliable, all-purpose saw, the FELCO 602 folding saw is a smart choice.
It is safe to store, easy to carry around the garden, and capable of handling many common pruning tasks, from overgrown shrubs to small tree limbs.
Its 160 mm blade has impulse-hardened teeth that help it stay sharp for longer, while the soft-touch handle provides a secure grip and steady control during use. The FELCO 602 has a stated cutting capacity of up to 80 mm.
Best Pruning Saw for Thick Branches
When you need to remove large limbs, you need a saw built for power, and the FELCO 630 is designed for exactly that.
Its long, curved 330 mm blade and aggressive pull-stroke teeth maintain cutting momentum and bite efficiently into thick wood, even when working overhead.
The extended stroke length makes it easier to work through large branches smoothly and with control. With a stated cutting capacity of up to 150 mm, it is well suited to demanding tree work.
Best Saw for Orchard or Vineyard Work
Professionals working in orchards or vineyards need a saw that cuts smoothly and remains efficient throughout the working day.
The FELCO 611 features a low-friction, straight 330 mm blade with hardened teeth for fast cutting and long-lasting sharpness. It produces clean, smooth cuts with minimal effort and has a stated cutting capacity of up to 100 mm.
The balanced design and ergonomic handle support steady pruning, while the included sheath keeps the saw close at hand during longer work sessions.
Best Saw for Precision Pruning
For detailed work such as topiary, training young trees, or working in tight spaces, a straight-bladed saw with fine teeth is a strong choice. It provides greater control and produces a clean finish, which is important when working on ornamental or specimen plants.
For detailed pruning work, control matters most. The FELCO 621 features a straight, tapered 240 mm blade that allows accurate cuts in tight spaces and between branches. Its fine, hardened teeth deliver clean, precise cuts that support healthy regrowth.
The FELCO 621 has a stated cutting capacity of up to 80 mm.
How to Use a Pruning Saw Safely?
Before you start cutting, take a moment to study the branch.
Find the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk or a larger limb. Your final cut should sit just outside this collar. Do not cut flush with the trunk.
The branch collar contains tissue that supports the tree’s natural process of closing and compartmentalising the wound. Removing it can slow this process and leave the tree more exposed to decay and disease.
Step 1: Plan How the Branch Will Fall
Check the weight and direction of the branch before you begin.
Make sure the area below is clear and that you have stable footing. Keep both hands secure on the saw where the design allows, and work with smooth, controlled strokes.
Let the teeth do the cutting. Forcing the saw can make the blade bind and reduce your control.
Step 2: Use the Three-Cut Method
Large branches should not be removed with a single cut.
As the branch drops, its weight can tear the bark down the trunk and leave a long wound. The three-cut method helps control the break and protects the branch collar.
Start with a shallow undercut on the underside of the branch, around 30 cm from the trunk. Cut roughly halfway through the branch.
Move a few centimetres farther out and make the second cut from the top. Continue until the branch breaks away. The undercut stops the bark from tearing back towards the trunk.
Finish by removing the remaining stub just outside the branch collar.
Do not leave a long stub, but avoid cutting into the collar itself.
Step 3: Keep Your Position Stable
Stand where you can work without stretching or twisting.
Keep a firm grip and make steady strokes. Stop if the branch shifts, the blade becomes trapped, or your footing no longer feels secure.
Never use a pruning saw above shoulder height unless you are using equipment designed for overhead work.
Step 4: Wear Suitable Protection
Wear sturdy gloves to improve your grip and protect your hands from rough bark.
Safety glasses help protect your eyes from sawdust and small pieces of wood.
Before each use, check that the blade is secure and free from visible damage.
Care and Maintenance for Pruning Saws
A clean, well-maintained pruning saw is easier to control and gives a cleaner cut.
After each use, wipe sap, sawdust, and other debris from the blade. Remove sap before it hardens. If necessary, use a suitable solvent or a specialised cleaner such as FELCO 980.
Check the blade regularly for dull, bent, or damaged teeth. Sharpening saw teeth can be difficult, and many high-quality pruning saws are designed with replaceable blades. When the blade becomes worn, replacing it can restore the saw’s cutting performance.
Store the saw in a clean, dry place. Fixed-blade models should be kept in a sheath or scabbard to protect both the teeth and anyone handling the tool.
Genuine replacement blades and other components are available in the FELCO Spare Parts section.
Conclusion
A pruning saw is a powerful addition to any gardener’s toolkit, making short work of branches that are too much for pruning shears or loppers.
By matching the blade type, tooth pattern, and design to your specific tasks, you can ensure each cut is clean and efficient.
Investing in a high-quality, well-maintained saw supports the long-term health of your garden and can make pruning work more enjoyable for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I use a pruning saw instead of pruning shears or loppers?
Use a pruning saw when a branch exceeds the stated cutting capacity of your pruning shears or loppers.
A pruning saw can also be a better option for hard, dead wood or for cuts in tight spaces where lopper handles cannot open fully.
What is the difference between a curved and a straight pruning saw?
A curved saw cuts aggressively and is well suited to general-purpose pruning and removing larger limbs quickly.
A straight saw offers more precision and control, making it better for detailed cuts and work in tight spaces.
Which pruning saw is best for thick branches?
A fixed-blade saw with a long, curved blade and large, aggressive teeth is generally best for thick branches.
It provides the power and long stroke needed to cut through substantial wood efficiently. Always check the saw’s stated cutting capacity before use.
Are folding pruning saws as strong as fixed-blade saws?
High-quality folding saws can be very strong, but fixed-blade saws are generally more robust because they do not have a hinge mechanism.
For the most demanding, heavy-duty work, a fixed blade usually provides greater strength and stability.
What size pruning saw do I need for tree branches?
Choose a saw with a blade that is longer than the diameter of the branches you plan to cut.
This allows for a full, efficient cutting stroke. You should also check the manufacturer’s stated cutting capacity for the specific model.
How do you safely cut large branches with a pruning saw?
Use the three-cut method: make an undercut to prevent bark from tearing, a relief cut to remove the weight of the branch, and a final cut just outside the branch collar.
This protects the collar and supports the tree’s natural process of closing and compartmentalising the wound.
How do you maintain and clean a pruning saw?
After use, clean sap and dirt from the blade with a cloth.
Apply a light oil afterwards to reduce the risk of corrosion, unless you are using a specialised cleaner such as FELCO 980, which lubricates and leaves a protective film on the blade.
Once clean, store the saw in a dry place.
